Living on the banks of a Legendary River


“It’s a Nullah (Indian for a traditional canal ).” People would warn us as we shortlisted a place to stay in Calcutta, about the tiny water body running alongside the house.

“Terrible smell from it on certain days”, we were told.

Considering it a temporary arrangement, we went ahead to begin unpacking.

Disregarding the stench, sometimes overpowering enough to close the doors, gradually the place grew on us. The Pipal tree would give refreshing air night and day. The mango tree would be abuzz with butterflies and birds. A hot favourite was the Red Silk Cotton tree (bombax malabaricum) which was conveniently located right behind the house and viewed from all back rooms. The squirrels would scamper on it all day. Spring would bring red flowers and birds of all colours; the yellow canary, flaming orange woodpeckers, Black Asian cuckoo bird and many more. There was one incident where we even spotted a family of Civets, confirmed by the fact when one of their members, smelling food on the table, made way right into our home and was chased by the cat.

In the afternoons, the loud drilling of a boat at the boat factory across the shore (if I can call it that.)  The late evenings, sometimes one can hear the horn of a patrol boat.

I was told this was the Tolly’s Nullah. During the British colonization of India, a gentleman called Tolly got the area cleared up of silt at his own expense  in the late 1700s. He has the nullah and a prominent colony to his name.

I might have forgotten about this back area, had it not been while reading Swami Vivekanand’s  memoirs (year 1899) that I chanced upon the mention of Tolley nullah again. He spoke about how the Holy Ganges was divided into “Hooghly” and “Padma” river before they deposited into the mouth of the bay of Bengal. He mentioned that “…the present “Tolley’s Nullah” represents the ancient course of the Ganges, and is known as the Adi ganga.” He also mentioned that foreign trade was carried out through a port called Triveni ( modern day Tribeni ) near the port city of “Saptagram”, on the river Saraswati. Triveni was the diverging point of three rivers during that ancient time, the Ganges, the Saraswati and the Yamuna.  It’s also known as Muktaveni to distinguish it from Allahabad Triveni.  Over time, the mouth of the rivers got silted. He further described how the gradual silting of the river course, led conquest forces to shift the port further and further. He also described how ships sank in a matter of minutes without a trace while trying to navigate these silted rivers. This is all estimated to have occurred over a time period of 400 -500 years from now.

At this point I mused how scholars are essential to our understanding of history and ourselves as a human race. Scholars such as Vivekananda provide a bridge between the present and the ancient times. So different from today’s scholars who selectively search and are given strict assignments. Swami Vivekanand mentions living in “modern times”, which of course from the future point of view, is history.

Coming back to the present times, Adi Ganga today is a forgotten mess. After it breaks away from the main Hooghly river, settlements over its banks, encroaching its soil with concrete homes of a few million plus. It traverses the side of Taj Bengal, but before that it accumulates all the waste and filth from Kidderpore market, and human and animal excreta from the poor living on its sides in Orphangunj. When we will stop mistreating the natural resources our country has been so abundantly endowed with? Wonder whether this silk cotton tree and its birds would remain part of the ecosystem in another 100 years or be gulped down by the insatiable human greed of land and forces of politics.

It also connects the city into two parts, one the side with Victoria memorial and the ultra rich Alipore, where once Warren Hastings had a sprawling estate, which is now a national library. The two were connected by the Zeerut bridge sometime in the British era.

There is another historical fact associated with this area. Less than an hour away from Tribeni and right on top of these ancient fertile banks, is the village of Singur. If you are wondering where you have heard about it, it is the place where the Tatas in connivance of the state government and under aegis of an archaic 1894 act, planned to set up a car factory for the world’s cheapest car called Nano, in 2007. An activist then stood up for the river, the fertile land and the people it supported and didn’t allow the plan to succeed. The rich man lost and was forced to shift the factory to the west part of the country. This activist is today the chief minister of West Bengal. Her name is Mamta Banerjee.

12 12 12

Today’s date has been exciting everyone around. A leading newspaper turned it into a sales promotion strategy. Its trending on twitter . Mark of a beginning or an end? Somewhere in our subconscious the need to start all over again manifests in our belief that this date is special and heralds spiritual transformation.  Lets look at it numerologicaly. 12, added up to 3, itself is the strong number standing for the triangular. A compact number with a lot of energy. In a solid form the triangle stands for the pyramid and cone. Kind of similar to the Mayan Tower below:

Now assuming that the date was 12/ 12/ 12 at 12.12 pm where am currently, the chart looks as under:


Why I choose, this place is that Pathankot was actually “‘Paithan’ and ‘Kot’,  two independent provinces which were estranged by the river Chakki.  (The river has since dried and all remains is a bed of rocks which are extensively  (and illegally) mined.) However, when the British documented these regions in their official registers, they mistakenly combined both the names and recorded them as ‘Pathankot’. Could References on the net, indicate that this may have been Paithan, the same as from the Indus valley civilization ? . So, around 4812 years old.

So, what 12-12-12 will bring lets anticipate is a transformation and not an Apocalypse. We will again be waiting for 21-12-2012 as per the last entry in the Mayan calenders, (which some say is incorrectly deducted)


These are spontaneous thoughts and personal deductions. Kindly do not refer to this for any numerological/historical accuracy.


Nurpur- the Forgotten Fort

I am not overly fond of visiting temples. This particular temple was in the ruins of an old fort, some 20 kms away from my home. A chance drive today till the Fort Area revealed to me more than I was prepared to take in. An unmarked road led us up the hill to the ruins of the fort.

A board outside the fort by the Archeological Survey of India, announced that there was a fine & imprisonment for any defacing or causing harm to the monument, but nothing about its historical relevance.
Monkeys greeted me at the entrance of the fort area. Further inside a secondary school was housed in the structure. Barren land and a couple of tourists were walking around, probablly finding something worthwhile to do with their evening, just like we were as well.

An old man was folding his rug after a seista in a nearby temple. He seemed to live there, but could again not give me much about the history of the monument. Some kind of faint artwork covered all the four walls around me.

It was then that I saw. Beautiful intricate paintings covered the walls of the temple from top to bottom.It was like a story, but which I could not decipher.Centuries had chipped the paint off the walls. Some of which had been left there had been repainted over by coats of distemper, proudly by a local painter. Some of which was left on those walls is documented below.

In my belief, it could have been some of the finest work that I have seen so far. (My benchmark being the Miniature gallery of the National Museum in Delhi). But sadly now, what remains is a faint picture of the glory of the Art form.