Living on the banks of a Legendary River


“It’s a Nullah (Indian for a traditional canal ).” People would warn us as we shortlisted a place to stay in Calcutta, about the tiny water body running alongside the house.

“Terrible smell from it on certain days”, we were told.

Considering it a temporary arrangement, we went ahead to begin unpacking.

Disregarding the stench, sometimes overpowering enough to close the doors, gradually the place grew on us. The Pipal tree would give refreshing air night and day. The mango tree would be abuzz with butterflies and birds. A hot favourite was the Red Silk Cotton tree (bombax malabaricum) which was conveniently located right behind the house and viewed from all back rooms. The squirrels would scamper on it all day. Spring would bring red flowers and birds of all colours; the yellow canary, flaming orange woodpeckers, Black Asian cuckoo bird and many more. There was one incident where we even spotted a family of Civets, confirmed by the fact when one of their members, smelling food on the table, made way right into our home and was chased by the cat.

In the afternoons, the loud drilling of a boat at the boat factory across the shore (if I can call it that.)  The late evenings, sometimes one can hear the horn of a patrol boat.

I was told this was the Tolly’s Nullah. During the British colonization of India, a gentleman called Tolly got the area cleared up of silt at his own expense  in the late 1700s. He has the nullah and a prominent colony to his name.

I might have forgotten about this back area, had it not been while reading Swami Vivekanand’s  memoirs (year 1899) that I chanced upon the mention of Tolley nullah again. He spoke about how the Holy Ganges was divided into “Hooghly” and “Padma” river before they deposited into the mouth of the bay of Bengal. He mentioned that “…the present “Tolley’s Nullah” represents the ancient course of the Ganges, and is known as the Adi ganga.” He also mentioned that foreign trade was carried out through a port called Triveni ( modern day Tribeni ) near the port city of “Saptagram”, on the river Saraswati. Triveni was the diverging point of three rivers during that ancient time, the Ganges, the Saraswati and the Yamuna.  It’s also known as Muktaveni to distinguish it from Allahabad Triveni.  Over time, the mouth of the rivers got silted. He further described how the gradual silting of the river course, led conquest forces to shift the port further and further. He also described how ships sank in a matter of minutes without a trace while trying to navigate these silted rivers. This is all estimated to have occurred over a time period of 400 -500 years from now.

At this point I mused how scholars are essential to our understanding of history and ourselves as a human race. Scholars such as Vivekananda provide a bridge between the present and the ancient times. So different from today’s scholars who selectively search and are given strict assignments. Swami Vivekanand mentions living in “modern times”, which of course from the future point of view, is history.

Coming back to the present times, Adi Ganga today is a forgotten mess. After it breaks away from the main Hooghly river, settlements over its banks, encroaching its soil with concrete homes of a few million plus. It traverses the side of Taj Bengal, but before that it accumulates all the waste and filth from Kidderpore market, and human and animal excreta from the poor living on its sides in Orphangunj. When we will stop mistreating the natural resources our country has been so abundantly endowed with? Wonder whether this silk cotton tree and its birds would remain part of the ecosystem in another 100 years or be gulped down by the insatiable human greed of land and forces of politics.

It also connects the city into two parts, one the side with Victoria memorial and the ultra rich Alipore, where once Warren Hastings had a sprawling estate, which is now a national library. The two were connected by the Zeerut bridge sometime in the British era.

There is another historical fact associated with this area. Less than an hour away from Tribeni and right on top of these ancient fertile banks, is the village of Singur. If you are wondering where you have heard about it, it is the place where the Tatas in connivance of the state government and under aegis of an archaic 1894 act, planned to set up a car factory for the world’s cheapest car called Nano, in 2007. An activist then stood up for the river, the fertile land and the people it supported and didn’t allow the plan to succeed. The rich man lost and was forced to shift the factory to the west part of the country. This activist is today the chief minister of West Bengal. Her name is Mamta Banerjee.

Journey to an island near Mumbai

For the first post of the year, I wondered whether I should be sharing all that happened last few months when I hadn’t been blogging.

The last day of the holidays I took this guided tour from a ferry point to a nearby island called “Elephanta Islands”. Ok, I’ve been living in India all my life and been in Mumbai for a couple too, living not far from the southern tip, but this trip hadn’t happened so far.

Gateway of India

That morning armed with my zoom lens and enough cheese and juice in my rucksack to last the journey, I took my a bit (very) reluctant kid on this trip. I won’t bore with you pictures of the Gateway of India, but here is lovely view of Mumbai from the sea, through the famous structure. If you look carefully at the stone carving, you will notice the intricacy.

Our ferry took us on this 45 min journey traversing through the Arabian Sea. Sea gulls moved with us, gaining thrust from the moving boat. I have some sea gull pictures, but none of the Naval Regatta which was being held the same day, as that was restricted.



The island has a toy train to transport tired commuters to the main island, but instead we enjoyed the walk through the village and commercial area for trinkets and souvenirs, which hadn’t opened yet luckily.



Instead, we saw a regal Goat occupying its owner’s vacant bed.

gate_04 ..And we saw some monkeys busy in their hygiene rituals.

Our guide took us on the less trodden path to watch birds. It wasn’t such a great idea. We were perhaps too many and too noisy to listen for birds.


At the end of our trail was a lake. Enterprising women had set up small shops to sell tea outside the gate.

While on our way to watch the famed caves and some species of bats that live there, I suddenly noticed that I was all alone on the path. I looked back and saw the group of three dozen huddled in a space, quiet and some aiming and focusing with their extra zoom lens at a tree. I quickly turned and rushed back to see what I had missed.


This was it. A spotted owlet. Poor thing must be wondering where its mom was and what the fuss was about. But it posed.


The caves were lovely, dark and cool. ( personal note: But do remember that Sunday is not a day for photography.)


On our journey back at midday, I noticed this ferry worker preparing chutney on a stone crusher. They make their meals on board.

Gateway of India

Finally the view of reaching “home” back to the Gateway and beyond.

There are very few open spaces for wildlife and birds to live in Mumbai, but those are eyed very closely by developers. The best places to spot birds are now being considered for “redevelopment” which is actually an entertainment zone with Ferris wheel and other stuff that comprises a “marina”. So I am in rather hurry this year to go around and spot all the birds in the coastal areas around Mumbai before they start cutting down the trees and start “redeveloping”. If you live in Mumbai, so should you.

Exploring Backwaters in Goa

This weekend we took a river cruise with the aim of seeing the Marsh Crocodiles.
While, the marsh crocodiles decided to take a siesta during a hot sunny afternoon, the experience of cruising through a boat through placid backwaters was itself something that I will treasure for long. Mangrove forests in Goa have their own particular ecosystem and inhabitants. While I decide to return to this forest with better preparation for the next time, here are some pictures of the journey.

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Surfing the water

Nature has ways of treating us to its bounty..and we have exotic ways of exploring the waters. Check some of these beauties that I just saw at the international boat show in town. It was pretty much cluttered to take shots, but managed a few. Jet skis, kayaks, yatchs and more. One yatch somewhat resembled the perfect cut of a diamond . At the end were a couple of gentlemen who posed for me outside an Eco Hut on display.

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